Right across the largest glacier in the Himalayas
In order to go to Cho La, we have to cross the Ngozumba Glacier, the largest glacier in the Himalayas. We follow the stone pillars that serve as path marker. First we need to climb down on the inside of the lateral moraine, then we are on the glacier. From ice little can be seen. The surface is covered with sand, gravel and rocks that the glacier valley promoted. The route on the glacier is pretty easy only occasionally some blocks to overcome. The lateral moraine on the other hand is a much more interesting. Here the sun shines strongly in and ensures continuous rockfall. So ears open and looking up and merely not stop again. On the lateral moraine once we have again one last look at the Cho Oyu.
About the Cho La to the Khumbu glacier
Today it is, the Cho La is indeed only 5368 m NN high, but it has a very steep ascent over snow and ice and the descent is a climbing route of about 100 meters above sea level. In addition, there has been a lot of new snow in the last week what matters is not necessarily easier. At 5 clock we go out and reach after 2 hours the ridge before actual passport. Here is a lot of snow, so crampons and up. Then comes the first climb on a moraine before we reach the actual increase. Once we made this first third the weather changes. Instead of blue heaven we have now thick clouds with light snowfall. Too bad no view from the pass. At 11 o'clock we reach the Cho La. We have used properly breath and look forward to the pretty easy descent. About the glacier it is easy and the climbing route is not a big problem. We are already in the valley of Dzonglha our goal. But here is a lot of soft snow and because it is flat, we have to fight properly. So we are pretty exhausted when we reach our lodge.
From Dzonglha to Lobuche
After crossing the Cho La we enjoy today an easy day to relax. It is only along the Chola Khola and to the Awi Peak and Khumbu Glacier to Lobuche. Lobuche is on 4910 m above sea level just under 100m higher than Dzonglha at Cho La. The way is therefore Nepali Flat - a little up, a little down - over snowfields, muddy tracks and some rock. Really easy! The outlook in the Khumbu valley and the Ama Dablam is great and after 4 hours we are already in Lobuche and have all afternoon rest. It started to snow, hopefully it's beautiful again tomorrow.
From Lobuche to Gorak Shep
It goes along the moraine of the Khumbu glacier upwards. Again and again we encounter heavily laden yak's, bear the burden towards Everest Base Camp. Here in this way also many tour groups are on the go. The have consistently hurry and place every day long distances with corresponding vertical meters back. Very dangerous! Here at this level, so the 5000m NN, we go very slowly. After about 2 hours relatively flat path, we reach the ascent to Gorak Shep pass. It goes steeply over blocks and boulders up on a narrow path. If porters come or overtake from above things get tight. From the top we can see the mighty Khumbu Glacier. The high mountains are unfortunately obscured by clouds and fog. Too bad. Gorak Shep is the old base camp of the Swiss Everestu Expedition of 1953. Here we find a place in the "Snow View Inn Lodge".
Earthquake on the way to Everest Base Camp
It is early afternoon and there is calm weather, we make a little walk, without luggage, direction Everest Base Camp. It goes beyond the dry lakebed of Gora Shep to the monument to the accident on Everest Mountaineers and then on the first lateral moraine down into a small valley before the actual lateral moraine of Khumbu glacier.
Suddenly we hear a distant rumble from the direction of Everest Base Camp. Avalanche, but it will
louder and louder, as if an entire mountainside slipping. Then the ground beneath our feet varies - Earthquake - quickly
looking up and since the first stones are already rolling towards us. Ahead of us lies a huge boulder, he moves
fortunately, not so fast behind as much as possible. Now come two very violent shocks, we can hardly
stand on either side of stones are falling on the trek. It fluctuates more than we see a huge white cloud from the
Glacier to come to us. Avalanche - Avalanche dust - Snow? We duck behind the big rock. Violent Storm
blows cold over us, then snow falls on us. After a short time, almost 10 cm of snow lying on us, then lets the
haunted by. When we wiped the snow off our glasses and can look back, we see how others
trekkers free from the snow. From trek nothing can be seen. We communicate, fortunately to no one
in our environment something happens, we go back as soon as possible to Gorak Shep.
The situation here is completely unclear, nobody knows anything. Many people are still on the way to Everest Base Camp,
but after awhile more and more people come back, including many trekkers we know from our way up. Some of the guides
of tour groups build a search party towards Everest Base Camp. At late afternoon the first mountaineers from Base Camp
arrive. There are coming more and more and some are injured. There are doctors sought and found they take care of those
people. Descend to Lobuche is not advisable as rockfall is danger on the way and there is already a heavy aftershock.
In the evening, there are mobile phones and we know little more what happened. Earthquake, west of Kathmandu, many
avalanches at Everest Base Camp, and a lot of missing climbers. We take this opportunity to send Text Messages to
Germany, because the earthquake is allready reported in the European news.
Our Lodge is now full to bursting, outdoor tents are set up and the rumor mill. It's getting dark, no one can do anything.
We speak with other hikers, we already know from the way here, and decide, if possible, get off tomorrow morning. We want
to provide space for the people from the Base Camp, as we do not have the equipment to help along the glacier.